So what makes a collar a good collar??  Is it the cool ribbon or fabric that covers the outside?  Or maybe that satin lining that you paid extra for because you weren't sure if you needed it, but wanted to have it just in case?  Or was it the upgraded hardware that did it?

All of these things are cool, and can add value to a collar, but they need to be used under the correct circumstances and on a collar that is structurally sound and durable.  Lets build a collar from the ground up!!

1.  First and foremost, every collar begins with what is called webbing.  Now there are LOTS of different types of webbing, from nylon to cotton to polyester, and all vary in durability.  Houndstown uses the one with the best durability-to-weight ratio: NYLON.  Nylon webbing is superior to all the others for balancing durability with weight and still maintaining a soft enough feel.  It is also the same webbing that is used in various components in the rock climbing industry, so strength is never an issue.

2.  Next, is the hardware.  Honestly, most collar vendors use the same hardware.  There are a couple folks out there that use an inferior stamped steel, but they are almost all in the process of switching to better hardware.  There are three basic types of slides (adjusters): nickel plated steel, which are the most common and economical, cast brass, which is a step up in look, finish, and of course price, and then nickel plated cast brass, which is a cast brass slider with a silver plating just to change the color.  All of these sliders work equally well in the application of a dog collar.  The hardware that you have to keep an eye on is the D-ring.  This piece of hardware is the most important, yet most overlooked.  For the D-ring to perform properly, IT MUST BE CAST OR WELDED!!  This is so important to ensure that your hound doesn't get one hard pull in the wrong direction and open up the ring.

3.  The next item to go on our virtual collar would be a satin lining.  So what is the purpose of this lining?  Besides the aesthetics, it plays a very important role for the hounds that NEED it.  It protects the sensitive skin on the underside of the neck that some hounds have.  My boy Pre has NO hair on his neck, and has never had a problem with an unlined collar.  Does he wear lined collars?  Sure, but mostly because I like them!!!  All Houndstown 1", 1.5", and 2" martingales are now lined.  All buckle collars are unlined by default, but a lining can be added.  And all of the Little Guys collection come unlined.  The webbing base we use on the little collars has such a tight weave, and smooth finish, that a lining is unnecessary. 

4.  Now we move on to fabric.  Where do I start with this one??  There are three general classifications of fabric that make up the design and look of a collar: Ribbon, Silks, and Cotton.  Ribbons first-There are tons of ribbons out there.  Every fabric store in every city carries them.  But why aren't they all used?  Durability.  We have learned the hard way that there are ribbons that just don't hold up to the abuse that a dog can put a collar through.  We *TRY* to only use ribbons with a proven track record, but about every six months or so one will still pop up as a culprit and gets taken off the site and replaced for customers that request it.  Second are the silks.  I have yet to come across a silk material that we use that has not stood the test of time.  They have (at least the ones we use) proven to be incredibly durable, and are great to work with. (As soon as I say this I will have a whole bunch come back!)  The only quirk with the silks is that some of the patterns are too big for some of the smaller collars.  And lastly, the cottons.  There are basically two types of cotton fabric-quilting material and upholstery fabric.  The quilting materials come in SOOO many different designs and patterns, that every collar vendor has some, but I will be the first to tell you that it is certainly not the strongest thing out there.  But with all the cool designs, etc., they are a staple in almost every collar inventory.  On the other hand, the upholstery fabrics are nearly indestructible!  I have a friend with a VERY collar-destructive hound that I try new designs on.  She has had one of the upholstery collars on for nearly a year, and it still looks brand new!!

5.  Now for the stitching.  This, for me, is the biggest point of contention.  There are a couple different types of thread-Cotton, Nylon/Poly blend, and Invisible.  First the cotton.  Cotton thread is the stuff that most fabric stores sell for general sewing.  It works great for that purpose, but not so great for a dog collar.  It is the weakest of the three.  Next is the nylon/poly blend.  This is the type that Houndstown uses, and combines the strength that is needed for long term use in a dog collar, with the color choices necessary to match the different types of fabric.  Lastly, is the red-headed step child of the sewing world, the Invisible thread, or "fishing line."  Some collar vendors use this thread because it is strong, and for the most part, seems to disappear into the background of a fabric.  It is mostly used because you don't have to switch thread when going from one collar to the next.  Here is the problem: the ends of this thread stick out and catch on you dog's neck, scratching it every time the collar moves!!  What is the point in using a satin lining and then scratching the dog's neck with the thread?  Even if the thread doesn't show when you buy the collar, because the thread is so slick, it will eventually work its way out and scratch your dog's neck.  I recently was in my local Bernina dealer, where we purchase all of our thread.  I was discussing the finer points of various types of thread (YAWN!!), when someone walked up and joined our conversation.  She just so happened to be a sales rep for Invisible Thread.  To make a long story short, she told us that if invisible thread was used on both sides (top stitch and in the bobbin) of a line of stitching, the thread would slowly but surely work its way loose. 

This is what happens to invisible thread after only a brief period of use.
 

I6.  Lastly, the stitching pattern.  I am not talking about how the fabric is sewn to the webbing, because honestly this doesn't matter.  Any 8th grader in home economics can do this.  I am referring to the stitches that hold the whole collar together.  There are actually quite a few correct ways to do this, but some look better than others, and some are a little more functional.  There are also a few things that can be done which aren't really necessary.  First of all, everywhere there is hardware needs to be double triple stitched.  "Triple stitching" is a type of stitch that higher end sewing machines perform that leaves a very neat, and incredibly strong, line of stitching.  This needs to be done twice at every point of stress.  A couple of things that can be added to this, but are not necessary, are "X stitching" between the two triple stitches, or triple triple stitching.  These aren't really necessary, but if they are there that is fine too.  The other point of collar debate is how close the stitches are to the D-ring.  I have gone over this more than a few times, spoken with an engineer, and put stresses on a collar from every angle, and the conclusion is that it DOES NOT MATTER how close the stitching is to the D-ring.  The force applied is the same either way

Well, those are the parts of a collar and what to look for.  I hope this helps in the search for a new collar for your hounds, and gives you an idea of what goes into what your pup wears!!